Variant 03-A
Paint by surface
The paint type, primer, preparation, litres and cans for each surface, by what it is, what it is made of and where it is.
Not yet Reviewed
Bedroom walls
- 14 m × 2.7 m
- Door, 0.8 m × 2.1 m
- Window, 1.2 m × 1.2 m
- 34.68 m² to paint
Door and window positions not to scale.
Paint: flat acrylic latex, 2 coats10.2 L · 3 × 4 L cans
Primer: one full coat
- Acrylic masonry primerRecommendedSeals concrete, plaster, cement boards and gypsum so the top coats stick and dry evenly; resists the alkali in cement. e.g. Boysen Permacoat Flat Latex B-701, used as primer.
6.1 L · 2 × 4 L cans
Preparation
- Fill cracks and holes with masonry putty, let it dry and sand smooth.
Parts at a glance
| Part | Amount | Rating |
|---|---|---|
| 2 cans | 25–30 m² per 4 L | |
| 3 cans | Flat · 30–35 m² per 4 L |
How the area is worked out
Area = length × height (or width) × sides (× sheet shape, roofs only) − doors − windows (walls only, cut to the wall height). Sizes in metres.
- Bedroom walls14 × 2.7 = 37.8 m² − 1 × 1.68 m² − 1 × 1.44 m² = 34.68 m²
Litres = area × 2 coats ÷ coverage + 10% extra. Primer: one coat. Elastomeric: one basecoat as well, bought as its own product. Cans rounded up on each product’s total.
6 checks passed
- Doors and windows fit along the walls.
- Concrete 60 days old: cured (28 days or more), no neutralizer needed.
- 2 top coats: at least the 2 needed.
- Every surface has a paint that suits it.
- Coverage figures are within the paint makers’ data sheets.
- Every paint and primer has a coverage from its data sheet.
For a room's walls, enter the total length of all walls (a 4 × 3 m room: 4 + 3 + 4 + 3 = 14 m).
Door and window sizes
Areas
- One door
- 1.68 m²
- One window
- 1.44 m²
- All surfaces to paint
- 34.68 m²
Variables
Result
- Not needed
- Acrylic masonry primer
- 6.1 L · 2 × 4 L cans
Variables
Bedroom walls: coverage per coat, from the can
Result
- Flat acrylic latex
- 10.2 L · 3 × 4 L cans
Products are examples; any maker's equivalent works. Where no coverage is given, copy it from the can.
| Paint type | Good for | Not for | Finish | Clean up with | Smell | Coverage |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Flat acrylic latex Water-based wall paint with no shine. e.g. Boysen Permacoat Flat Latex B-701 | Hides small dents and roller marks: the usual choice for living rooms, bedrooms and ceilings. | Scuffs and is hard to scrub; not for bathrooms, kitchens, doors or floors. Source: Boysen Permacoat Latex product page, boysen.com.ph/products/boysen-permacoat-latex; Sherwin-Williams paint sheen guide, sherwin-williams.com/en-us/project-center/paint-sheen-guide | Flat | Water | Low | 30–35 m² per 4 L |
| Satin acrylic latex Water-based wall paint with a soft sheen (also sold as eggshell). e.g. Boysen Healthy Home (low odor, antibacterial) | Wipes clean and resists damp: good for bathrooms, kitchens, hallways and children’s rooms. | The sheen shows dents more than flat paint; not for floors or metal. Source: Boysen Healthy Home product page; myboysen.com, “Boysen Paint Products to Help Keep Mold and Mildew Away”; Sherwin-Williams paint sheen guide, sherwin-williams.com/en-us/project-center/paint-sheen-guide | Satin | Water | Low | 30–35 m² per 4 L |
| Semi-gloss acrylic latex Water-based paint with a shine (semi-gloss or gloss). e.g. Boysen Permacoat Semi-Gloss Latex B-715 | Tough and easy to clean: doors, frames, trim, kitchens and bathrooms. | The shine shows every flaw on a big wall or ceiling; not for floors. Source: Boysen Permacoat Latex product page, boysen.com.ph/products/boysen-permacoat-latex; Sherwin-Williams paint sheen guide, sherwin-williams.com/en-us/project-center/paint-sheen-guide | Semi-gloss or gloss | Water | Low | 30–35 m² per 4 L |
| Elastomeric wall coating Thick, rubbery acrylic for outside walls. e.g. Boysen Elasti-kote (basecoat B-5805, then topcoat B-5815) | Stretches over hairline cracks and keeps rain out of outside masonry walls. | Not needed indoors; not for wood, metal, floors or roofs. Source: Boysen Elasti-kote product page (boysen.com.ph) | Semi-gloss | Water | Low | 25–30 m² per 4 L (without mesh) |
| Alkyd (oil-based) enamel Solvent-based gloss paint that dries hard, often sold as quick-drying enamel. e.g. Boysen Quick Drying Enamel | Tough gloss for wood and metal: doors, trim, gates and grilles, inside and out. | Not for concrete, plaster, cement boards or galvanized iron: the alkali makes it peel. Source: Boysen Quick Drying Enamel product page and technical data (boysen.com.ph); Brick Industry Association Technical Note 6, gobrick.com; KTA-Tator, “Coatings for Galvanizing”, kta.com | Gloss | Paint thinner | Strong (solvent) | 20–25 m² per 4 L in practice |
| Two-part epoxy Paint mixed with a hardener just before use. Sets very hard. e.g. Boysen Epoxy Enamel (with its curing agent) | Concrete floors, water tanks and metal indoors: resists wear, water and chemicals. | Chalks and fades in sunlight; costly and fiddly for whole walls. Source: Boysen Epoxy Enamel product page (boysen.com.ph): interior surfaces; KTA-Tator, “Coatings for Galvanizing”, kta.com (epoxy chalks in sunlight unless top-coated) | Gloss | Epoxy reducer | Strong (solvent) | 25–30 m² per 4 L |
| Two-part polyurethane A hard gloss top coat mixed with a hardener, often put over an epoxy primer. e.g. ask for a two-part (aliphatic) polyurethane top coat | Floors, gates and steel outside: keeps its color and gloss in the sun, where epoxy chalks. | Fiddly and costly for whole walls; needs a bare, primed surface. Source: KTA-Tator, “Coatings for Galvanizing”, kta.com (epoxy chalks in sunlight unless top-coated); Grand Coatings, “Epoxy vs Polyurethane Topcoat”, grandcoatings.com (VERIFY) | Gloss | The maker’s reducer | Strong (solvent) | Check the can |
| Acrylic roof paint Water-based gloss paint made for metal roofs. e.g. Boysen Roofgard | Galvanized iron roofs, pre-painted roof sheets and unglazed roof tiles. | Not for walls, rooms or floors. Source: Boysen Roofgard product page (boysen.com.ph); myboysen.com, “Boysen Roofgard” | Gloss | Water | Low | 25–30 m² per 4 L in practice |
| What it does | Coverage | |
|---|---|---|
| Acrylic masonry primer e.g. Boysen Permacoat Flat Latex B-701, used as primer | Seals concrete, plaster, cement boards and gypsum so the top coats stick and dry evenly; resists the alkali in cement. Source: Boysen Permacoat Latex product page (boysen.com.ph): 25–30 m² per 4 L as a primer | 25–30 m² per 4 L |
| Mold-inhibiting, alkali-resistant undercoat for fiber cement e.g. ask for an alkali-resistant undercoat with a mold inhibitor, made for fiber cement | First coat on fiber cement boards in damp, shady or outdoor places: resists the alkali in the boards and slows mold. Source: HardieFlex Installation Manual (2009), “Paint Finishes” | Check the can |
| Elastomeric sealer e.g. Boysen Elasti-kote Sealer B-5800 | The first coat of an elastomeric wall system, made to go under its basecoat. Source: Boysen Elasti-kote product page (boysen.com.ph) | 25–30 m² per 4 L |
| Wood primer (flat enamel) e.g. Boysen Flatwall Enamel B-800 | Seals bare wood so the grain doesn’t soak up the top coats. Source: Boysen Flatwall Enamel product page; Boysen Quick Drying Enamel product page (primer for wood) | 25–30 m² per 4 L |
| Rust-inhibiting metal primer e.g. Boysen Red Oxide Metal Primer B-310 | Red oxide primer that slows rust and lets the top coat grip bare steel. Source: Boysen Red Oxide Metal Primer B-310 product page; Boysen Quick Drying Enamel product page (primer for metal) | 25–30 m² per 4 L |
| Acrylic metal primer for galvanized iron e.g. Boysen Primeguard Water-based Metal Primer | Water-based primer made to grip zinc-coated (galvanized) iron, where oil-based primers can peel. Source: Boysen Primeguard product page (acrylic, for galvanized iron); KTA-Tator, “Coatings for Galvanizing”, kta.com (no alkyds on zinc unless the maker says so) | 25–30 m² per 4 L |
| Two-part epoxy primer e.g. Boysen Epoxy Primer | The primer of an epoxy system, mixed with its hardener like the top coat. Source: Boysen Epoxy Primer and Epoxy Enamel product pages (boysen.com.ph) | 20–25 m² per 4 L |
| Chalk-sealing (bonding) primer e.g. ask for a primer made for chalky surfaces | Binds what’s left of chalky old paint after washing, so new paint doesn’t peel. Source: myboysen.com, “Is It Okay to Paint Over?” (chalky paint needs a chalk blocker) | Check the can |
| Part | Qty | Your unit price (₱) | Subtotal (₱) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Preparation | |||
| Fillers: masonry putty (e.g. Boysen Masonry Putty B-7311) for cracks and holes in concrete | 1 lot | — | |
| Primer | |||
| Acrylic masonry primer (e.g. Boysen Permacoat Flat Latex B-701, used as primer), 4 L cans (6.1 L needed) | 2 can | — | |
| Paint | |||
| Flat acrylic latex (e.g. Boysen Permacoat Flat Latex B-701), 2 coats, 4 L cans (10.2 L needed) | 3 can | — | |
| Tools & safety | |||
| Rollers and tray, brushes, masking tape, sandpaper, drop cloths | 1 lot | — | |
| Safety glasses, gloves and a dust mask for sanding | 1 lot | — | |
| Total (5 parts not priced) | ₱ 0 | ||
Enter your supplier's prices to get a total.
- Protect and clear. Move furniture out or to the middle, cover floors with drop cloths, and mask switches, frames and edges with tape.
- Prepare each surface. Fill and sand, as each surface’s preparation list says, then dust off.
- Prime. One coat of the primer each surface needs: 6.1 L in all. Prime bare spots on old paint. Let it dry before the top coats.
- Paint. Cut in along corners and edges with a brush, then roll 2 top coats (10.2 L of finish paint in all). Let each coat dry before the next.
- Clean up. Pull the tape while the last coat is still slightly soft. Wash water-based paint off tools with water; enamel needs paint thinner and epoxy its reducer. Keep leftover paint for touch-ups.
- Old paint: paint from before 2017 may contain lead. Never dry-sand it. Test it, or wet-sand and wear a proper mask.
- Fresh air: keep doors and windows open while painting and drying. Enamel and epoxy give off solvent fumes.
- Bleach: never mix bleach with ammonia or other cleaners. Wear gloves and eye protection.
- Etching solution: acid. Wear gloves and eye protection, and rinse it off well.
- Ladders and roofs: use a stable platform for ceilings, don’t overreach, and never work on a roof alone or when it is wet.
Each coverage figure is the low end of one published range, so you don’t run short; “Coverage figures” below says exactly which page or data sheet each comes from. Where none is given, the amount uses the figure you enter from the can. Follow the data sheet of the paint you buy.
Area and amount
- Arealength × width × sides − doors − windows
- Each face is its length times its height or width. Door and window areas come off walls. Doors and gates are usually painted on both sides.
- Source Boysen, “How Much Paint Do I Need?” (myboysen.com); Dulux, “How Much Paint Do You Need?”
- Roof sheet shapecorrugated × 1.105, long-span rib × 1.5
- Wavy and ribbed sheets have more surface than their flat size. Corrugated adds 10.5%. For rib sheets the figure is for a deep trough profile, and rib shapes differ (VERIFY): measuring across a sheet along its ribs is better.
- Source Resene Engineered Coating Systems Manual, “Surface area calculations” (corrugated iron; trough section), resene.co.nz.
- Doors and windowscut to the wall height; not taken off when wider than the wall
- A door can’t be taller than its wall, so its height is cut to the wall’s. If the doors and windows add up to more than the wall’s length, the sizes or counts are wrong: nothing is taken off until they are fixed, so the paint isn’t short.
- Source Plan rule (geometry).
- Litresarea × coats ÷ coverage
- Coverage is per coat, so the area counts once per coat. Cans are rounded up on each product’s total.
- Source Boysen, “How Much Paint Do I Need?” (myboysen.com)
- Waste allowance10%
- Paint left in rollers and trays, rough surfaces and touch-ups. No paint maker gives a figure; change it to suit.
- Source Planning allowance (ASSUMPTION).
- Door and window sizes0.80 × 2.10 m door, 1.20 × 1.20 m window
- Measure your own doors and windows. These are starting values.
- Source Boysen, “How Much Paint Do I Need?” (myboysen.com) (measure and subtract openings).
- Coverage check8.75 m²/L
- The highest coverage on any data sheet used here (35 m² per 4 L). A higher figure is usually a typo, and the paint would run short. A primer figure is only checked where a full primer coat goes on.
- Source Boysen product pages.
Choosing the paint
- The rule
- Each paint type is rated on three things: what the surface is made of (cement and boards are alkaline; metal rusts; galvanized iron is slick), what it is (floors take feet, doors take hands, roofs take heat and rain) and where it is (damp rooms grow mildew; outside means sun and rain). Made for all three: recommended. Works with a catch: suitable. Fails any one: not recommended, with the reason and what to use instead.
- Source Paint makers’ product pages for each type (see the paint table); Sherwin-Williams paint sheen guide.
- Sheen by room
- Flat hides flaws on walls and ceilings but scuffs; satin wipes clean in hallways and family rooms; semi-gloss suits kitchens, bathrooms, doors and trim.
- Source Sherwin-Williams, “How to Choose Paint Finishes”, sherwin-williams.com/en-us/project-center/paint-sheen-guide
- Damp rooms
- Flat paint soaks up damp and lets mildew grow. Use a mildew-resistant, wipeable paint.
- Source myboysen.com, “Boysen Paint Products to Help Keep Mold and Mildew Away”; Sherwin-Williams paint sheen guide.
- Oil-based paint on cement
- The alkali in concrete, plaster and cement boards turns alkyd (oil-based) paint into soap: it softens and peels. Acrylic latex resists it.
- Source Brick Industry Association, Technical Note 6 “Painting Brick Masonry”, gobrick.com/media/file/6-painting-brick-masonry.pdf
- Galvanized iron
- Alkyd paints should not go on galvanized iron unless the maker says so. Use a roof paint made for it, or a water-based acrylic primer made for galvanized iron under other paints. (Some makers also list alkyd red oxide primers for galvanized iron; this plan follows the stricter rule.)
- Source KTA-Tator, “Coatings for Galvanizing”, kta.com/coatings-for-galvanizing; Boysen Primeguard and Roofgard product pages.
- Epoxy outdoors
- Two-part epoxy resists sunlight poorly: uncovered, it chalks and wears away. Boysen lists its epoxy enamel for interior surfaces.
- Source KTA-Tator, “Coatings for Galvanizing”, kta.com/coatings-for-galvanizing; Boysen Epoxy Enamel product page.
- Outside walls1 basecoat + your top coats
- Elastomeric coatings stretch over hairline cracks and keep rain out. The system is a sealer, one basecoat, then two topcoats; the basecoat and topcoat are separate products, so each is listed and rounded up to cans on its own.
- Source Boysen Elasti-kote product page (boysen.com.ph), painting schedule, option 1 (plain finish).
- Solvent paints indoors
- Every paint thinned with something other than water (alkyd enamel, epoxy, polyurethane) gives off strong fumes. Inside or in a bathroom or kitchen it is rated “suitable” with that catch, never “recommended”; outside it isn’t a catch.
- Source Plan rule; each type’s clean-up solvent from its data sheet.
- Wrong paint for the material or surface
- A paint rated “no” for what the surface is made of (it peels) or what it is (floors wear through, roofs weather) fails the check. Rated “no” only for where it is (smell, mildew, sun) is a warning.
- Source Plan rule.
- Wood and metal
- Alkyd enamel for wood and metal, over a flat enamel primer on wood and a red oxide primer on steel.
- Source Boysen Quick Drying Enamel product page, boysen.com.ph/products/boysen-quick-drying-enamel
Primer and preparation
- Top coats2 (at least 2)
- One coat rarely covers evenly. Every maker’s system ends in two top coats.
- Source Boysen, Dutch Boy and Nippon Paint product systems; HardieFlex manual (2009), “Paint Finishes”.
- New concretewait 14–28 days
- Young concrete is wet and alkaline: paint on it can peel, stain or grow white salt. Under 28 days, wash it with neutralizer (4 L of mix covers 20 m²).
- Source Boysen Masonry Neutralizer B-44 product page; myboysen.com, “3 Tips for Neutralizing New Concrete”.
- Bare masonry and boards
- One full coat of an acrylic primer seals concrete, plaster, gypsum and cement boards so the top coats dry evenly.
- Source Boysen Permacoat Latex product page: 25–30 m² per 4 L as a primer, for concrete, plaster, drywall and fiber cement.
- Fiber cement
- At least two coats of 100% acrylic latex within a month of fixing the boards. In damp, shady or seaside places, a mold-inhibiting, alkali-resistant undercoat first; this plan lists it in place of the primer coat (ASSUMPTION, VERIFY with the board maker), with the coverage from its can.
- Source HardieFlex Installation Manual (2009), “Paint Finishes”; myboysen.com, “Boysen Renovation Series: Painting Ceilings”.
- New galvanized iron1 part etching solution to 9 parts water
- Wipe off grease with paint thinner. Etch new galvanized iron, rinse and dry before painting. After 6 months outside it needs no etching, so the etching solution is left off the list.
- Source Boysen Roofgard product page, boysen.com.ph/products/boysen-roofgard-gloss-acrylic-water-based-roof-paint
- Old paint
- Sound paint: sand lightly and prime only bare spots. Chalky paint: wash off the powder and use a chalk-sealing primer. Going from dark to light: prime white first.
- Source myboysen.com, “Is It Okay to Paint Over?”
Coverage figures
- Flat acrylic latex7.5 m²/L
- Low end of 30–35 m² per 4 L as a top coat, Boysen Permacoat Latex product page.
- Source Boysen Permacoat Latex product page, boysen.com.ph/products/boysen-permacoat-latex; Sherwin-Williams paint sheen guide, sherwin-williams.com/en-us/project-center/paint-sheen-guide
- Satin acrylic latex7.5 m²/L
- Low end of 30–35 m² per 4 L on the Boysen Healthy Home product page: borrowed from that one low-odor paint, so check the can of the satin you buy.
- Source Boysen Healthy Home product page; myboysen.com, “Boysen Paint Products to Help Keep Mold and Mildew Away”; Sherwin-Williams paint sheen guide, sherwin-williams.com/en-us/project-center/paint-sheen-guide
- Semi-gloss acrylic latex7.5 m²/L
- Low end of 30–35 m² per 4 L as a top coat, Boysen Permacoat Latex product page.
- Source Boysen Permacoat Latex product page, boysen.com.ph/products/boysen-permacoat-latex; Sherwin-Williams paint sheen guide, sherwin-williams.com/en-us/project-center/paint-sheen-guide
- Elastomeric wall coating6.25 m²/L
- Low end of 25–30 m² per 4 L without mesh, given for both the basecoat B-5805 and the topcoat B-5815 on the Boysen Elasti-kote technical data (product page).
- Source Boysen Elasti-kote product page (boysen.com.ph)
- Alkyd (oil-based) enamel5 m²/L
- Low end of 20–25 m² per 4 L “in practice” on the Boysen Quick Drying Enamel technical data sheet (its product page gives 30–35 in theory).
- Source Boysen Quick Drying Enamel product page and technical data (boysen.com.ph); Brick Industry Association Technical Note 6, gobrick.com; KTA-Tator, “Coatings for Galvanizing”, kta.com
- Two-part epoxy6.25 m²/L
- Low end of 25–30 m² per 4 L, Boysen Epoxy Enamel product page.
- Source Boysen Epoxy Enamel product page (boysen.com.ph): interior surfaces; KTA-Tator, “Coatings for Galvanizing”, kta.com (epoxy chalks in sunlight unless top-coated)
- Two-part polyurethanefrom the can
- None: no data sheet used in this plan gives one. The amount uses the figure you enter from the can.
- Source KTA-Tator, “Coatings for Galvanizing”, kta.com (epoxy chalks in sunlight unless top-coated); Grand Coatings, “Epoxy vs Polyurethane Topcoat”, grandcoatings.com (VERIFY)
- Acrylic roof paint6.25 m²/L
- Low end of 25–30 m² per 4 L in practice from myboysen.com, “Boysen Roofgard” (the product page gives 30–35 in theory).
- Source Boysen Roofgard product page (boysen.com.ph); myboysen.com, “Boysen Roofgard”
- Acrylic masonry primer6.25 m²/L
- Low end of 25–30 m² per 4 L as a primer, Boysen Permacoat Latex product page.
- Source Boysen Permacoat Latex product page (boysen.com.ph): 25–30 m² per 4 L as a primer
- Mold-inhibiting, alkali-resistant undercoat for fiber cementfrom the can
- None: no data sheet used in this plan gives one. The amount uses the figure you enter from the can.
- Source HardieFlex Installation Manual (2009), “Paint Finishes”
- Elastomeric sealer6.25 m²/L
- Low end of 25–30 m² per 4 L for Sealer B-5800, Boysen Elasti-kote technical data.
- Source Boysen Elasti-kote product page (boysen.com.ph)
- Wood primer (flat enamel)6.25 m²/L
- Low end of 25–30 m² per 4 L, Boysen Flatwall Enamel B-800 product page.
- Source Boysen Flatwall Enamel product page; Boysen Quick Drying Enamel product page (primer for wood)
- Rust-inhibiting metal primer6.25 m²/L
- Low end of 25–30 m² per 4 L, Boysen Red Oxide Metal Primer B-310 product page.
- Source Boysen Red Oxide Metal Primer B-310 product page; Boysen Quick Drying Enamel product page (primer for metal)
- Acrylic metal primer for galvanized iron6.25 m²/L
- Low end of 25–30 m² per 4 L, Boysen Primeguard Water-based Metal Primer product page.
- Source Boysen Primeguard product page (acrylic, for galvanized iron); KTA-Tator, “Coatings for Galvanizing”, kta.com (no alkyds on zinc unless the maker says so)
- Two-part epoxy primer5 m²/L
- Low end of 20–25 m² per 4 L, Boysen Epoxy Primer product page.
- Source Boysen Epoxy Primer and Epoxy Enamel product pages (boysen.com.ph)
- Chalk-sealing (bonding) primerfrom the can
- None: no data sheet used in this plan gives one. The amount uses the figure you enter from the can.
- Source myboysen.com, “Is It Okay to Paint Over?” (chalky paint needs a chalk blocker)
- Acrylic latex
- Water-based paint. Dries fast, smells less than oil paint, washes off tools with water.
- Alkali
- The caustic salts in cement. They attack oil-based paint, which turns soft and peels; acrylic paints resist them.
- Coat
- One full layer of paint over the whole surface, left to dry before the next.
- Coverage
- Area one litre of paint covers in one coat, in m² per litre. Printed on the can or its data sheet, often per 4 L can.
- Efflorescence
- White, powdery salt that comes out of young concrete. Let the concrete cure and neutralize it before painting.
- Elastomeric
- A thick, rubbery outdoor paint that stretches over hairline cracks instead of cracking with them.
- Enamel
- Paint that dries hard and shiny. Thin and clean alkyd (oil-based) enamel with paint thinner, not water.
- Etching
- Washing new galvanized iron with a mild acid solution so paint can grip it. Rinse it off and let it dry.
- Finish (sheen)
- How shiny the dry paint is. Flat (no shine) hides flaws; satin and semi-gloss shine more and wipe clean more easily.
- Galvanized iron (GI)
- Steel with a zinc coating, like most roof sheets. New GI is too smooth for paint to grip until it is etched.
- Low odor (low VOC)
- Paint that gives off fewer fumes while drying, so the room can be used sooner.
- Masonry neutralizer
- A wash for new concrete or plaster that is still alkaline (“fresh”). Without it, paint on young concrete can peel or stain.
- Mildew
- Black or green mold spots on damp walls. It comes back through paint; wash it off first.
- Primer
- The first coat on bare concrete, boards or patches. Seals the surface so the top coats stick and dry evenly.
- Putty (masilya)
- Paste that fills small holes and cracks before painting. Sand smooth when dry.
- Two-part epoxy
- Paint mixed with a hardener just before use. Sets very hard, but fades and chalks in sunlight.
These numbers are estimates. Check them against your own measurements and product labels before you build. Coverage varies with the surface, colour and application. Follow your paint's data sheet.